[香港 HONG KONG] - Roasties near the Horses 永祥燒臘飯店 Wing Cheung Restaurant (Happy Valley)

 

Happy Valley is not known to be a food destination for international travelers. To the locals it is a place where you can go to the Jockey Club, where if you are a member you can do a number of things. For the average person, this is their legal Las Vegas, where people can bet on horse racing and try their luck. Not sure if this is still true, but apparently if you win big at the races, you essentially remain anonymous, no matter the size of the jackpot (unlike the Super Lotto in the USA, if you hit the mega millions, your mugshot becomes the theme for worldwide wallpaper).

But there is a surprising variety of interesting eats in that have their own unique characteristics.

 

Today we visit this neighborhood roasties shop, Wing Cheung. It has been around probably 30 years or more and has been often visited by celebrities (e.g. "has been" pop singers, but still hold some level of wealth and power) according to tabloids who have nothing better to do, than to report singer X dropped by for some roasties take out while he battles reports of infidelity, or that he knocked up a starlet while his kids were at school.

 

 

 

 

This is a pretty good reliable standby kind of place. While it does not have the level of success and fame like Joy Hing, it's a reasonable no nonsense effective and delicious establishment that does the goods quite well. Here the roast goose and cha siu/bbq pork rice plates hits the spot. The only setback for those seeking value is that they do not include a house soup like some of the other roasties restaurants (e.g. Joy Hing).

 

Nonetheless, recommended if you are in the area and want to get some roasties to go, or dine in with a rice plate.

 

 

永祥燒臘飯店  Wing Cheung Restaurant

跑馬地景光街2號地下
G/F, 2 King Kwong Street, Happy Valley 



 



 

[香港 HONG KONG] - A Temple of Roasties 再興燒臘飯店 Joy Hing Roasted Meat (Wanchai)

Joy Hing 再興燒臘飯店 really needs no introduction. It has already been put on the map, thanks to Anthony Bourdain: Layover Hong Kong and probably numerous other write-ups by local bloggers and reviewers.

But despite all that, Joy Hing still maintains that low key neighborhood feel that doesn't seem to be overrun by tourists. No nonsense, efficient, great food, and best of all an affordable price.

Rather than mincing on words, I'll let the photos do the talking.

While waiting in line, the butcher's window provides plenty of photo ops and teases 

 

Looks like a battlefield. All good stuff I'm sure! 

 

 "Welcome to the jungle, we've got fun & games! And roasties!"

 

Action packed in here. 

 

The secret sauce. Self help for coloring your white rice to your heart's content! 

 

 Included with your meal, house soup. This one is watercress with pork bones

 

Upgrade your lifestyle with an entrée plate of cha siu!

 

Heaven in a plate. No need for wagyu all the time right?

 

Let's get a closer look at the goodness, shall we? 

 

Roasties so fine it even makes the butcher cry. (I have no idea how I managed this shot...) 

 

 

What are you waiting for? Head here now! 

 

再興燒臘飯店 Joy Hing Roasted Meat

灣仔軒尼詩道265-267號地下C座
Block C, G/F, 265-267 Hennessy Road, Wan Chai 

[香港 HONG KONG] - Smooth slippery greasy carby saucy wetty goodness from Hop Yik Tai 合益泰小食 (Sham Shui Po)

Hop Yik Tai 合益泰小食
 

So one Taiwanese author once wrote that when she goes overseas, and returns to Taiwan, the first thing she craves as soon as she gets off the plane, is beef noodle soup 台灣牛肉麵. Craig Auyeung in one of his 2007 books mentioned that for him (and perhaps other Hong Kong expats), his equivalent craving after returning to Hong Kong would be won ton noodles 雲吞麵. As wonderful as a writer Craig is, I believe he has it wrong.

 

Because one of the things I was craving this whole trip, was plain cheung fun with sauces 豬腸粉!!

 

Plain cheung fun 豬腸粉 with lots and lots of sauces is a childhood snack food engraved into the memory of many homesick Hong Kong expats (local and overseas), at least those who grew up in the 60s/70s/80s. If you asked me when I was 11 or so if I preferred HK style spaghetti (stir fried with ketchup, sausage/ham/onions) or HK style with meatsauce, or 豬腸粉....the answer would be blatantly obvious!

 

And what is there not to like? A multitude of textures and flavors....so much more exciting than eating al dente pasta or big ass stupid name American sushi rolls!

  

 

So some years back when this place was put on the social media blogging map as the temple of 豬腸粉, it was time to pay them a visit. Easy to locate and get to, since it was right outside the MTR station in Sham Shui Po, with a very easy walk. Can't find it? Walk inside and follow the crowds until you see the crazy lines.

 

 

You can of course order other things inside Hop Yik Tai, and even dine in. But if you want a taste of the streets, old school style....just stand up like a true Hong Konger, and eat. Standing noodle bar? Well perhaps. The line moves fairly fast, as it is a pretty much one woman operation when you eat standing up.

 

 

Very simple. Tell the lady with the scissors how many rolls of 豬腸粉 you want (there is a price sign around the corner somewhere...with constant inflation who knows how much this is now). Lady takes a plate, cuts the rolled rice noodles into mini bite sized pieces, then asks you what you want on it.

 

 

 

See those squirt bottles? It's a medley of sauces of varying flavors. For the full experience, just say you want everything. And do not forget the sesame seeds, a critical component. 

 

 

 

See how fast homeboy in the cap quickly dives down and starts slurping that shit after purchasing? Like he is snorting cocaine and had withdrawl issues? :-)

 

 

 

Now before you come flocking here, be aware that these 豬腸粉 rice noodle rolls are outsourced to some factory, so Hop Yik Tai does not make them in house. But you are guaranteed freshness, since the turnover is so high.

 

If you are facing the cart and look to your left, this is the alley. Not exactly the best of all environments, but there's something primal about enjoying this right there.

Ahh the challenges of food photography. So much better to hold a cel phone camera in one hand, and hold the plate of goodness in the other. Not fun trying to do this with a big digital SLR camera.

So what are you waiting for? Wolf down that stuff like a lion in a bacon shop!

Slippery, smooth, wetty, a wee bit greasy feeling, spicy, savory, a tinge of sweetness, and fairly hot.
And it goes down so well.


HOP YIK TAI 合益泰小食  
G/F 121 Guailam Street, Sham Shui Po 
深水埗桂林街121號地下

[香港 HONG KONG] - Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant (Wanchai) 陳勤記鹵鵝飯店

Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant 陳勤記鹵鵝飯店 Wanchai branch was open for less than 3 weeks during the time of this visit (January 8, 2013 or thereabouts). The flagship store is in Sheung Wan, and unfortunately I have not been to that location which same say is better. This was the last meal on the trip, and quite a memorable one.

CKK should be pretty easy to navigate. The menu is fairly widespread as a result of trying to accommodate locals as well as out of town visitors. Thus it takes a little research and understanding before you deep dive into ordering, and naturally sticking with the restaurant's namesake cuisine.

The menu is in both English and Chinese, with fairly accurate translations.

鹹菜胡椒豬肚湯 (Double boiled pork stomach peppercorn pickled vegetable soup)

 

This one is a no brainer. The restaurant has two double boiled soups, the other being Chinese almond and pork lung, which you can easily get at Trusty Gourmet or even Luk Yu. But you are here for a Chiu Chow experience, and thus 鹹菜胡椒豬肚湯 (salted pickled vegetable, peppercorn, pork stomach soup) is the de facto standard.

 

This soup is totally glorious, especially when it's so cold outside you can't feel your nads. If you are coming from a country where it snows, HK's worst cold weather is nothing to fear and you will think we are all a bunch of wussies (which is true). But if you are like most locals, high single digit temperatures in degrees Celsius is pretty serious business with any wind chill factor. So a bowl of comfort, will really hit the spot. Beware though, as you get closer to the bottom of the pot, the pepper flavor kicks in. You will see whole peppercorn spheres once most of the soup is scooped out.   

 

 

 

鹵水拼盤 (combination simmered platter)

 

Looking back, I regret not getting the sliced goose breast platter. But this combination platter was a decent sampler otherwise. Some marinated tofu, marinated pork belly, marinated goose wing tip, and goose "ankle" area of the foot. A touch greasy looking, but otherwise quite pleasing. I can only imagine how much better the flagship branch marinade could be.

 







 



 

川椒雞 (chicken with jin jiew sauce)

 

Despite the name, this has nothing to do with Sichuan or Sichuan peppercorns, and is a dish I grew up with that nobody has been able to replicate in Northern California. The best part are the crispy greens that come with it. This is a very typical Chiu Chow Cantonese dish. Though the chicken was a bit roughly chopped, and a bit too big.

 

 

 家鄉煎蠔烙 (pan fried oyster omlette)

 

Another golden standard, the Chiu Chow style Cantonese oyster omlette. On the dry side and crispy, which is great for me. No dip sauce, and was overall quite pleasing. Would have been perfect with a cold beer.

 

One last dishes that was ordered, but totally forgot to photograph was 方魚炒芥蘭  (Chinese broccoli or Chinese kale stir fried with a style of dried salted fish).

 

There were only 3 of us, so the number of dishes we could try were limited. But overall this was like the ending of a Marvel super heroes movie....a teaser clip for future indulging of Chiu Chow delights. This meal had me wanting a whole lot more.

 

The other parts of the restaurant, particularly the deli section and seafood tanks provided some fun photography material   

We were joking about the sausages. There were 3 when we sat down, and nobody ordered the longest one.

Cold flower crabs 花蟹 - did not ask how much, but probably close to $1000 or a little less.

Flower crab 花蟹 - Quite gorgeous. These would likely be cooked to order

 

 To try next time "fish rice" 魚飯 - fish that is salted, cooked in broth, and allowed to cool, and eaten cold

 

Chan Kan Kee Chiu Chow Restaurant
陳勤記鹵鵝飯店
Shop 9-10, G/F, Tonnochy Towers, 250-274 Jaffe Road, Wan Chai
灣仔謝斐道250-274號杜誌臺地下9-10號舖      

      

[香港 HONG KONG] - Kam Wah Café 金華冰廳

In the last 13 years or so, it seems that Hong Kong Board of Tourism has successfully positioned and marketed the strengths of the best eats of Hong Kong, and thrusted them into the limelight for countries that have a strong Chinese speaking (and reading) population. Thus not just bloggers, but all forms of broadcast medium (internet, magazine, newspaper, TV) are finding ways to capitalize on the trend.

And this is good (and bad) news for many Hong Kong eateries. The places that were once fiercely guarded as local favorites, quickly became the darling destinations of visitors abroad, whether it be China, Japan, Taiwan, Singapore, Malaysia, or even USA/Canada (let's face it, Chinese people are everywhere in the world). The fight for precious real estate, a seat at your favorite eatery, has suddenly became that much more difficult. We haven't even dived into consistency and quality, which is always a challenge. The popular shops seem to be always operating on scale, something many overseas establishments struggle very much with, yet it seems like childs play to folks like these.

So Kam Wah Café 金華冰廳 I'm sure has been widely mentioned since...oh...I'm so late to the game...2007 or before in all forms of blogs and social media. Every guide book published out there will have a mention of this legendary café. Once you find yourself on Bute street, it's just a matter of finding the storefront. On a weekday even at 2 pm, expect lots of people in line. But you want to make sure you are standing in the right one....there is one for takeout (people buying buns and pastries) and the other is for dine-in.

"People Mountain People Sea" 人山人海

 

 

 

The menu is pretty wide. But if you do a little research ahead of time, there are only a handful of signatures for a quick rest stop (which is the whole idea anyway). One hot bun, and one drink. Because stomach space is so valuable in a region that has so many things to eat, with so little time.

 

One $14 bun and on hot cup of $8 drink, coming right up!

 

 

Hot milk tea 熱奶茶

 

Pineapple bun with butter (contains no pineapple) 菠蘿油

 

Ask a local, and they will tell you different opinions about the pineapple bun with butter 菠蘿油 here.

Some will say it is not their style. The other famous item here, the Mexican bun 墨西哥包 (which has nothing to do with Mexico in any shape or form), only comes out during certain times of the day, and luck was not on my side. Pineapple buns come out of the oven piping hot quite frequently, and these are their best seller without a doubt.

 

Whether it is your style or not, there is something awesome about a super piping hot pineapple bun fresh out of the oven, with a quick slab of cold salted butter in between. If you live overseas like I do, you will come to appreciate this version VERY quickly, as it is vastly superior to anything around. Perfect structural integrity, good texture in and out, and the interplay between salty and sweet, lightly toasty crispy and fluffy and puff pastry/multi layered, and the hotness of the bun with the coldness of the butter. It all comes together quite nicely. And then a sip of hot milk tea which is quite pleasing here despite trusted locals who don't think it is anything great...but it works.  

 

So complain all we want about how there are better buns elsewhere, or the buns are good but the milk tea stinks. Yet there is something quite calming about the controlled chaos in here...cramped space (but not to the point of torture), sharing a table with strangers, loud noises, yet pretty down to earth and simple offerings that hit the spot.

 

In and out within 25 mins or so. Not too shabby.

 

And then onward to the next eating adventure...  

 

 

 Whooops sorry dude, I wasn't trying to violate you with my cel phone cam!

Kam Wah Café 金華冰廳
G/F, 47 Bute Street, Prince Edward
太子弼街47號地下

[香港 HONG KONG] - 澳洲牛奶公司 Australia Dairy Company - a model of efficiency

I have no idea why I decided to check this place out. Perhaps as the years go by, the desire for adventure and trying something at least once finally won over sticking with tried and true never failing places (or attempts for that matter) at anything.

This is one of those you either love it or don't care for it type places. 澳洲牛奶公司  or Australia Dairy Company...and you can even abbreviate it to
澳牛 like the locals do, yet it comes highly recommended by guide books published in Chinese and English for reasons still not fully understood by me (if it were for the food).

Love the bald dude's "WTF" expression when he addresses the employee, look at the line

 

The above picture was taken after I had finished my meal. I think it was around 10 am, maybe my 2nd to last day before departing Hong Kong. If you avoid the rush hour (e.g. lunch) then you might luck out with a much shorter wait. Either way, this is one of the most efficient restaurants in Hong Kong, and perhaps the reason why they can go through multiple rotations of tables and customer volume in one day. It does help once you know how and what to order ahead of time.

                                                                      

They use local whole milk here from Kowloon Dairy

 

The eatery specializes in a few things...mostly milk and egg based type eats, but it's primarily some sort of pasta with chicken soup (canned no doubt), with ham or pork, scrambled egg sandwiches, and steamed egg or milk custard (hot or cold).  There are set meals around those which offer better value than a la carte, but it depends on your fancy.

 

Steamed milk custard, cold or reheated/steamed hot

 

And you can kind of see the steamed egg custards from the outside window while waiting in line

 

So once you sit down, it doesn't take much time for an employee to come take your order. If you need a little more time, just polite say you need another minute, and you can flag them down again.

 

Never a dull moment in here. No waitstaff stands or sits idle. Worker bees in white

 

A few choices for set menus, prices circa January 2013, might be higher now

 

 

Wanted to save some stomach space, and didn't care for pasta with canned chicken soup and ham....so ended up ordering a la carte.

 



Scrambled egg sandwich with ham on toasted white bread

 

 





The order came fairly quickly, but not as immediate as some described. But I have to say it was way quicker than many HK cafes even in California! Good simple comfort food, although having had runny scrambled egg with cha siu rice plate at Shun Hing Dai Pai Dong in Tai Hang a few days ago, I did not think this was that great. Australia Dairy Company is worshipped for having one of the best HK style scrambled eggs in town, but I found it just ok.

 

 

The iced coffee was just plain bad. Overly sweet, and way too much ice. Should have ordered it hot.

 

Still had a little room for dessert

 

Redemption with steamed milk custard (double skin)

 

Luckily much better than Yee Shun. A great standard.

 

I was in and out, from the moment I sat down to the moment I paid the bill and stood up...I'd say within 15 ish mins or less.

 

The location is very convenient and close to the Jordan MTR station. While the food does not quite live up to the hype, I believe this place should serve as a business model or prototype (case study) for others to learn about efficiency and dealing with scale. Now if only some of those slow pokes in California can visit this eatery just to learn management and efficiency from them, the restaurant world might just be a better place.

 

 

澳洲牛奶公司 Australia Dairy Company

G/F, 47-49 Parkes Street, Jordan

佐敦白加士街47-49號地下