Wednesday, March 10, 2010

[台北市] - 火車頭鐵路便當 Taiwan Dinkey Railway Bento (Taiwanese style Eki-Bento) chain shop


When some people need to take a short break from work, they may go out for a walk to get some sun and fresh air (especially if you work indoors and sit down a lot). Or they may hang out with friends for a quick espresso at some fancy coffee joint and get a la-tay, with or without cigarettes (espcially if your arse is on the line). Some might hide in their offices (if you are not in a cubicle), plaster cardboard on the windows, and take a long nap. Arguably there are some who like to get high during work and secretly bring crack, dope, shrooms, and use them during breaktime. Next thing you know they're your boss or high up in the ranks of the company ladder.

And there are those who like to sit in the toilet stall. Some delight in reading a book, newspaper, or surf the net if you have a wireless connection. Me? Sometimes I go through my wallet and see what kind of junk I accumulated. In this case I found a business card with a printed menu I kept as a souvenir during my trip to Taipei, which leads us to our next review.

People who grew up in Taiwan might remember that old style flavor of bento meal boxes sold only at train stations (known as eki-bento in Japan), that you could take to eat on the train (coal buring engines too). This is arguably a Japanese tradition and influence that perhaps found its way to Taiwan during and after WWII, except the train station (railway) bentos have seasonings and ingredients that cater strictly to Taiwanese tastes. Homesick Taiwanese ex-patriots in the USA will surely remember this old flavor, including certain instant noodles that you eat right out of the bag without cooking them (e.g. the Prince brand of cruncy instant noodle snacks).

Enter Taiwan (spelling Tawain on their business card) Dinkey Railway Bento, with 3 locations throughout Taipei county. They set up one shop where I went some years ago, in the heart of downtown Taipei on Nanyang Street where there are many tutoring centers (bu-shi ban) for afterschool high school (and college) students, and tons and tons of places for cheap eats. Needless to say, there are a lot of budget and demanding gourmets as a result. You can't bullshit the people here.


Nanyang street location (not sure if is still around). Quite a few selections beyond the standard pork chop and chicken leg, including katsu (breaded fried items). There's a help yourself side konbu sauce (spicy or original) too.


The upstairs seating area is modeled to kinda/sorta look like the inside of a train, or somewhere in a train station. Not the cleanest space, and if you are lucky there's maybe a small box of tissues. Bring your own drink, or you can get a free fruit juice carton packet that comes with the purchase of any bento.

Each bento at TDRB is a humble but decent sized portion, with the most expensive one under US$3, and the cheapest one a tad bit over US$2.

I actually tried two bentos, one with chicken thigh leg, and the other with pork chop. The pork chop was supreme, really beating out any version in SF Bay Area and even parts of Southern California where there is arguably the highest concentration of Taiwanese expats and restaurants. There were also some marinated peanuts, 2 scoops worth of rice, one whole soy sauce and spices marinated egg (like a tea egg but no tea flavor), one piece of marinated tofu (tofu gan) and some preserved vegetables. While I never tried or had the opportunity to eat at a train station in Taiwan, just based on the flavor I'd say this was pretty damn authentic, and best of all CHEAP eats.

Other bentos on the menu include "Hokkaido style fish sticks", shrimp steak (probably a variation of ebi-furai), fried fish steak, fried calamari, minced marinated ground pork.

This is a fine shining example of a business that at least for me successfully re-creates an old flavor for many grown ups. You probably won't be able to eat this everyday as you would get sick of it, though should you find yourself in Taipei, this is an interesting experience.

This is a chain, I do not have an updated address, sorry.

Tuesday, March 9, 2010

[台北] - 大學口胡椒餅 - Mouth of University's Pepper Pork Bun - Gonguan Taipei (near NTU)


If I could re-live my life again, maybe in some alternate reality or universe (like in the comic book world), I wanna be either an exchange or foreign student of Taipei University.

Why? Only because of all the cheap good sexcellent food right across the street! Nearby is Gonguan District, home to many bookshops, coffee places, local businesses, and cheap quick fast, goooooooood eats.

Sure you can go to a presitigious university like Berkeley and dine on the great (and some former) places like Bongo Burger, Intermezzo, Ethiopian, some Korean Bear place, sub par but cheap mall style food court mixed eats, but the food just won't compare.

But there are a few shall we say hiccups in the area. Not bad, not great, but just enough to hit the spot.

And one of them is a place called Da Hshir Koh Hu Jiao Bing 大學口胡椒餅, or University Corner Fuzhou style Pork Pepper Bun.

This is unfortunately nowhere near as good as the Fuzhou Pork Pepper Bun that originated out of Rao He night market (and has another branch at Shihlin and arguably somewhere downtown Taipei).


http://beefnoguy.blogspot.com/2010/01/fuzhou-style-pork-pepper-roasted-bun.html

But they do offer more than one version
 
These guys operate just against the wall of the side of a building!
The grill in which they make the buns.

They do deliveries. Flavors include curry lamb, beef, pork, and chicken.

You line up, place your order. I believe it costs the same as the competition, NT$50 (under US$2) and they go into their makeshift charcoal powered pseudo tandoori oven, and scoop out one of these roasted buns, put it in a paper bag.

Then you eat with a lot more care than a McScalding coffee (worthy of a McLawsuit but these guys won't McGiveaF**k if you Mcburn yourself).

The outside was indeed nice and toasty and roasty. Pictured is the pork version.


After a first few bites you see the really juicy and moist insides, and sure enough a ton of white pepper smothered in the marinated ground pork, just sufficient scallions. A ton of juices (and grease) inside. The marinated pork is a nice hue of dark brown. But when you eat that top layer away, towards the center, the pork is looking a lot lighter, and in some cases just a shade of pink away from looking fully cooked (although I'm sure it is fully cooked). Then some weird taste of sweet and sour, as if they used Worcester sauce....WTF? The exterior is doused with sesame seeds that after roasting does give the outside layer a very nice well rounded flavor.

The outside is decent but the inside is only good until you get towards the inner middle.

So sad to say and for once, been there, done that.

There are way better food stalls in the area and elsewhere, and with literally hundreds of thousands of eating places to choose from, I have less than a lifetime to try new things.

On to the next adventure....

大學口胡椒餅 (Mouth of University's Pepper Pork Bun)
台北市大安區羅斯福路三段335號‎ (Da An District, Roosevelt Road 3rd portion #335)
Tel: 02-2363-2181‎

Monday, March 8, 2010

[新竹縣] - 春上布丁蛋糕 - Chunsun Pudding Sponge Cake from Hsinchu


Oh why oh why is it so freakin difficult to find a nicely done cake?

I don't mean the western styles that you can hop into Whole Foods, Safeway, Costco etc and get your sugar overload.

Japanese style soft sponge cakes....., even the Sheng Kee's, Sogo's of Northern California are generally a big fat fail. :-/. While I like certain Hong Kong style bakeries (e.g. Kee Wah), it's out of the way and not even the same thing. Unfortunately the best Japanese style bakery is Satura, which is 1) too expensive and 2) closer to French/Cali style in nature for their offerings.

This is where Taiwanese bakeries in Taiwan make the perfect match....localized but yet amazingly delicious and light.

Anyhoo, someone was super kind during our last Taipei trip to have his friend pick up a Chunsun Pudding Cake 春上布丁蛋糕 for us. From the little I know, this shop has been around for some time and specializes in this delectable sponge cake which for some reason they call it "pudding cake". I suppose it does have the texture of really really good Asian style milk pudding.

We tried the regular flavor and also a chocolate one. Both were SEXCELLENT.
You'd think something like this is readily available in Northern California and should at least taste as good.

But I guess not.

春上布丁蛋糕 Chunsun Cake
新竹縣竹北市文興路二段98號 (Hsin Chu county, Chubei city, Wen Hsin Rd 2nd portion #98)
(03) 6577-222

Website: http://www.chunsun-cake.com/home.html

(文興路二段和嘉豐十一路交叉路口)
**新竹竹北六家高鐵站步行8-10分鐘

Monday, February 22, 2010

[台北] - 寧夏夜市-蛋黃芋餅 - Ningxia Road Night Market Taipei - deep fried bun (taro, duck yolk, pork floss)


So here at another new favorite night market of mine, called Ningxia Road Night Market 寧夏夜市(in Taipei City), it is said that Taipei started right here at this spot. It might not be the oldest night market in all of Taiwan, but this place certainly has a lot of local appeal and seems way less touristy than the overly crowded Shihlin Night Market.

In addition Ningxia Road Night Market is apparently famous for vendors who manage to keep some uber old school flavors (in Mandarin, Goo Dsao Wei - 古早味) alive through the years. Some are new vendors who successfully replicated those flavors, and some have been around 30 years or more.

So what's this Fried Taro cake thang? It's a snack bite offered by one vendor on the main strip of Ningxia Road Night Market. The sign is blue with white Chinese letters, on the right as you walk in from the entrance. It's easy to walk by and make it an afterthought, but it's really something you don't want to miss and try out.


There are two versions actually at this one unique vendor stall (no chairs, just get to go). The first is what they called Dan Hwang Yu Bing 蛋黃芋餅 (egg yolk taro cake), and the second one appears to be without the egg yolk, with a flakey exterior layer. Both are deep fried of course.

The first one costs a bit under US$0.70 and the other is US$0.50. Of course the locals buy these in bulk, whereas you the visitor are well advised to try the egg yolk version once before you gobble them down like Pac Man.

4 to 4.5 stars for this killer snack. Here's a rundown of the stall behind the scenes:




1) Cooked duck egg yolks. Note the bright red almost crimson kyrptonite like colors. Yes this will weaken you by destroying your cholestrol levels, in addition to the deep frying, but who cares! You're on holiday yes? Look at how beautiful they pile it up, like a mountain!


2) A mountainous pile of pork floss, or shaved dried pork 肉鬆 (rou song). Tons of flavor, these things go virtually with anything, from rice to porridge, to bread and sandwiches, to even sushi and handrolls if you must.



Vendor person basically takes 1) and smothers it in 2). Then takes a scooper to obtain the right amount of taro dough, then rolls 1 and 2 together inside.

Then this simple delicious muthafugga is DEEP FRIED, allowed to cool and excess oil to drip out, then bagged into paper and sold.




The exterior is roasty toasty, but the insides have a near mochi like chewiness to it. The yolk gives it a mild salty kick, and the pork floss yields the additional sweet and almost crunchy like texture. Even if you wait 5 to 10 mins after buying it before eating, it is STILL a piping hot piece of delicious fried taro ass.

For those watching their figure, might just want to have only one or two at the most (and save room for other kinds of gluttony). There's a whole lot more stuff to eat. Good thing the road is long so you can do a lot of walking to help burn some of that taro ass off.


寧夏夜市 蛋黃芋餅 (Ningxia Road Night Market, Deep Fried Egg Yolk Taro Bun)
台北市寧夏夜市(寧夏路與民生西路交叉口) - Ningxia Road x Mingshen West Rd
時間:17:00~01:30

Friday, February 19, 2010

[台北] 七十二牛肉麵 - 72 Beef Noodles Taipei - I'm so happy I could die now


The best beef noodle soup in Northern California, whether it be A&J's version or San Tung's 5 spice beef noodle soup, cannot hold a candle to the clear white broth stewed beef noodles soup at 72 Beef Noodles in Taipei 七十二牛肉麵.

72 is the new kid on the block in terms of beef noodle soup, carving a niche of new school in a sea of old schools (like the 50+ year old Yong Kang or Lao Zhang on Yong Kang street), yet is using a great Shandong old school ancestral family culinary secret of making baitang 白湯 (baitan in Japanese), and that is using pure ox bones to stew a thick delicious creamy fulfilling healthy broth, without adding M$G (cough cough $anta Ramen $an Mateo), milk powder, or even ox bone powder. While they offer the red stewed spicy version of the beef noodles (infused with upwards of 12 kinds of herbs and spices), the one you want to get is the clear broth stew 清燉牛肉麵.

The vats of broth, note the sets of ox bones hanging on the side, with each set being about 1.5 kilos to make one serving of soup.

View of the kitchen as seen from the street. Shows you they have nothing to hide.

Sure, these guys didn't win anything within top 3 of Beef Noodle Soup Festival 2009, but they earned the highest marks across the board by the self proclaimed Taiwan Michelin guide (all beef noodles lovers, no snobby posh overinflated French creamy butter fatty eating folk), and that says a lot.

Why the name 72? Well that's because it takes a full three days to prepare the broth! 1.5 kilos of pure ox bones make one serving of soup. These guys are freakin serious, and Mr Liu who is Shandongnese in origin, is the General Patton behind the operation.

Day 1 - ox leg bones are immersed in cold water.
Day 2 - ox leg bones in the pot set to medium heat, mostly to remove excess fat
Day 3 - continue stewing until it is done, all under carefully controlled conditions.


The obligatory condiment of choice, pickled sour chopped mustard greens 酸菜


Media coverage

The philsophy of 72 beef noodles and the cooking process

Various side dish ingredients

The menu

As you know a good bone soup, if done right, is extremely nourishing. We're not just talking proteins, calcium, but also collagen. Mr Liu assures (and has been proven by yours truly) that this broth will surely delight, and you will feel very blessed and lucky having it. You want to consume this broth, if you are pregnant, or a slave in the corporate world, member of the eldery, or just feel weak all over. It is like a rejuvenating potion.




Dedicating two pages worth to the broth alone

Gotta have a page about the noodles too (didn't take one about the beef)


喜瑪拉雅山玫瑰鹽 (Himalayan Rose Salt)

You REALLY want to enhance the bowl of broth with a little bit of Himalayan Rose (Pink) salt, with a shaker available at each table. Apparently this is the stuff the chef adds to the broth during the cooking process, but you want to season it a little more to give it the necessary OO-MOMMY.

What to expect

眷村炒滷味 (mixed soya stir fry)

Ahhh appetizer....decisions decisions. Why not just go straight in for the kill for their specialty. NT$100 gets you a very decent sized portion of what is called Juen Chuan Tsao Lu Wei 眷村炒滷味, or Military Village style stir fried soy sauce marinated eats. There's seaweed, tofu strips, bits of soy sauce marinated egg, garlic, garlic sprout, a sauce that contains upwards of 12 secret ingredients, and this whole thing is extremely appetizing.

Clear Broth Stewed Beef Noodles - 清燉牛肉麵


72 knows you cannot just have a sexcellent broth. The noodles are actually quite good too. I'm sure the Taiwanese version of al dente (aka QQ) has been overused, but al QQ or Q dente these noodles definitely are. Brilliant pairing.



And last but not least...DA BEEF. Dunno what the hell is up with numerous Taiwan beef noodle joints refusing US beef...but no matter, because they've found a fantastic replacement.... Australian calf shank. For some reason each calf only produces a certain amount of the cut of shank 72 needs to use, but it is a marvel to behold in yo mouth. Giant slices accompany each bowl, cut to the right thickness (not thin but not thick), soft enough with a mild chew, and the tendons....damn.


Still hungry after eating the two items? Ask for a FREE refill of broth.

That will send you home happy.

七十二牛肉麵 - 72 Beef Noodles
台北市大安區建國南路一段188號‎ - Taipei City, Da An District, Jin Guo S. Rd, 1st Portion #188
Tel: 02-2752-5970‎
營業時間:11 am - 9:00 pm

Thursday, January 28, 2010

[台北] 許家黃金牛肉麵餃子館‏ - Hsu's Golden Beef Noodle Soup and Dumpling House


This place was rated mostly 4 out of 4 stars in several categories by the "Taiwan Michelin" team, a self professed group of local beef noodle enthusiasts/rabid fans/experts who are really not as douchey as the real Michelin folks, because for once, it is not about hype but the food. Yes, four stars for delicious restaurant food, 3 stars for sanitary environment, 4 stars for value, service quality, and reasonable price. However don't worry too much about sanitary environment.....this is not a place to take a date, unless he or she is a beef noodle lover of epic proportions, in which case you are so getting laid after eating here (although I'll recommend an even better place for you, keep your panties on).

Here's a view of the kitchen as you enter on your left, before the dining area.

Self help side dishes, NT$30 or roughly US$1 a plate.


The owner during some recent glory days of winning awards, including 2008 Beef Noodle Soup Festival first place (via internet voting).


The owner is a very friendly guy and provided that you speak Mandarin it's smooth sailing all the way from service to pride in their product.

The store has struggled for quite some time, and literally spent half a million (US$) over 8 years in R&D to produce the exact kind of beef noodle soup they want today. And it shows in their effort.


The menu basically offers you a choice of beef noodle soup, or noodles with soup, and also dumplings in beef broth. They also offer Taiwanese style wonton noodles, sesame sauce noodles, stewed minced pork brothless noodles, side plate of veg, fishball soup (made with milkfish), and seaweed eggdrop soup.

But really you come here for the beef noodles and dumplings in beef broth.

Complimentary self help preserved spicy sour veg. Pungent Taiwanese sauerkraut.

Hua Gan 花干 (side dish)

Combination Lu Wei (marinated soy hard boiled egg, dried tofu strips, seaweed, smothered with scallions, drizzled with soy sauce paste and sesame oil)



Oh yeah the "Golden" name. It's weird, because the broth does really have a slightly golden hue or tone to it. And this is their strength. It's not a huge bowl, and for roughly US$3.50 I would not expect it to be, but it does hit the spot. The beef is the standard shank cut (I've been saying criss cross flank too much) and is very nice, although the noodles were typical "yoh mien" that you can find anywhere. Best of all no MSG, the broth is indeed flavorful and deep, but light and not oily. Anyhoo the picture of the owner getting some award and good media coverage is a testament to his success


Now the same broth makes their black pork and cabbage dumplings (also with no MSG) taste soooooo much better, and if you come here make sure you get that as well. Unfortunately I am unable to re-create this flavor of dumpling at home, even with Nijiya black pork from Canada and douchey whole foods cabbage!

Good value, although a little bit divey in the interior. These Taiwan Michelin Folks have been fairly spot on otherwise. Recommended if you are in the area!

許家黃金牛肉麵餃子館‏ (Hsu's Golden Beef Noodles and Dumplings House)
台北市松山區八德路四段272號‎  (Songsan District, Ba Der Road 4th Portion, #272)
Tel: 02-2747-6600‎